Remembering Kevyn Aucoin

Kevyn Aucoin was an American Makeup Artist from Shreveport, Louisiana. After dropping out of school because of bullying he then decided to enrol in beauty school, this is where I found during research that although he hoped to learn more about makeup here, he actually ended up teaching the class instead. After some unpleasant experiences he then decided to move to New York and began by putting makeup on test models to build up his portfolio, this is where he was discovered by Vogue. He did a total of 18 Vogue shoots and from 1987-89 he completed 9 Vogue covers in a row as well as working on Cosmopolitan magazine. The highlight of his career began when he did Cindy Crawfords makeup on a 1986 Vogue cover, following this he would have to be booked months in advance and could charge up to $6000 for a makeup session.

A quote I found when researching that really stood out for me is “You can put on all the makeup you want, but it won’t make your soul pretty.” 

Ellis Faas

Ellis Faas is said to be one of the most influential makeup artists of this time, from the Netherlands, she has worked with everyone from Mario Testino to Karl Lagerfeld. Ellis actually began being a photographer, but always had an eye for fashion. After a while she became to dislike the technical side to photography and this is where her love for makeup artistry came in, after attending a short course in Amsterdam, she then went to Paris where she trained in make-up and special effects at Christian Chauveau’s Technical School of Artistic Make-up. After her studies ended, she returned to the Netherlands where she worked as a make-up artist for fashion magazines, as well working on two movies. Searching for something more she then decided to move to London where she soon became very successful. There she used her talents for special effects by reproducing skin diseases for medical inserts, as well as doing work on pop videos for the stars of the time.

After the birth of her daughter she then decided to move back to Amsterdam, this is where she decided to start up her own portrait studio. Here, she not only took clients' photographs but she also did their make-up. It was the country's first ever "makeover studio” and came to be very popular.

However in 1999 her whole world changed when she was asked to work for Mario Testino to shoot a series for L’Uomo Vogue. Following this she travelled with him all over the world from Paris to Los Angeles. This is also where she met French fashion editor Emmanuelle Alt, who introduced her to Karl Lagerfeld. Suddenly Ellis was working with makeup artists teaching them how to apply makeup she designed for Lagerfeld’s shows for Fendi and Chanel.

She has an impressive list of people she has worked with some notable include; Working on magazines such as The Face, Harper’s Bazaar, V Magazine, Vogue (Australia, Deutschland, Italia, Nippon, Paris, Russia, UK). She has also worked on fashion shows including; Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Chanel, Diesel, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Diane von Fürstenberg, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Kenzo,  Lanvin, Moschino Couture!, Moschino Cheap&Chic, SportMax and Yves Saint-Laurent Haute Couture. 

As well as having an incredible list of people she has worked with she has also recently brought out a cosmetic range with include products for the face, eyes and lips.

Some of my favourite looks she has done are shown below:

Own Portraits

As well as looking at contemporary portraits we were also asked to create our own portraits. This is mine below, I chose to add the Vogue magazine as it is my favourite magazine, it also represents my love for fashion. I chose the red lipstick because it is by my favourite makeup brand MAC, shade (Lady Danger) and I love wearing red lipstick. I also wear a lot of black, hence why I am in my portrait and this also explains the Coco Chanel bottle as my friends say I act like her. I have a Vogue subscription and it is where I often look for inspiration not just for makeup but for fashion as well. 

Basic Colour Theory

Analogous- similar or corresponding in some respect

Complementary- combining in such a way as to enhance or emphasize the qualities of each other or another.

Achromatic- Designating colour perceived to have zero saturation and therefore no hue, such as neutral greys, white, or black.

Monochromatic- containing or using only one colour

Basic Colour Theory:

In the visual arts, colour theory is a body of practical guidance to colour mixing and the visual effects of a specific colour combination.

Primary Colours: Red, yellow and blue

In traditional colour theory (used in paint and pigments), primary colours are the 3 pigment colours that cannot be mixed or formed by any combination of other colours. All other colours are from these 3 hues.

Secondary Colours: Green, orange and purple

These are the colours formed by mixing the primary colours.

Tertiary Colours: Yellow-orange, red-orange, red-purple, blue-purple, blue-green & yellow-green

These are the colours formed by mixing a primary and a secondary colour. Why the hue is a two word name, such as blue-green, red-violet, and yellow-orange.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_theory

http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-design/basic-color-theory

Contemporary Portrait

Looking at different types of portraits and symbols in them I also looked at some contemporary portraits. My chosen subject was teen icon, Kylie Jenner. With 13 million Instagram followers 17 year old Kylie is definitely not shy in front of the camera. Her Instagram is also full of images captured of her extravagant lifestyle and things she been up to, in particular:

Some of the images above contain an insight of what her life must be like, with images of being on a private jet plane, to greeting fans. She often posts pictures of herself and friends in her black matte Mercedes, as seen above posing on it, she may not do it consciously but you can clearly see the wealth in the images she posts. 

Elizabethan Portrait

The image I have chosen is of Helena Von Snakenborg, she was a Swedish noblewoman who was said to be highly favoured by Elizabeth I. From her clothing you can tell she was of a high status, Queen Elizabeth actually appointed her Maid of Honour from about 1567, before promoting her to gentlewoman of the royal privy chamber. Helena became one the queen's most friendly advisers and controlled access to the queen. The dress she wears has Tudor roses on it and this could symbolise patriotism, and loyalty to the queen. After research I found out that Helena was very close to Elizabeth, and on several occasions acted as Elizabeth’s deputy, often standing in for her during the baptisms of noble children. Helena was much respected, mostly because of her complete refusal to be bought and her disregard for court intrigues and her very real love and loyalty towards the Queen.

On Friday 10^th October we were given the opportunity to go on a trip to London, after the 2 ½ hour journey we were all very excited to get off the coach and have a look around. First we visited the National Portrait Gallery, we began by looking at the Tudor section looking at the Elizabethan portraits. We were then asked to find an image that engages us, my chosen image was

This image is of Elizabeth I. 

The description deemed it to be by an unknown artist, sometime after 1588. After further research I found out that it was actually said to be painted in the early 17th century with an 18th century overpainting. I think this caught my attention because of the details of the portrait, you can see all of the tiny details in the lace and it amazes me that someone hand painted this. I think that Elizabeth’s personality, or what we know of it, is coming through in this; she is obviously of high class and the painting shows her royalty. Having a 45 year reign, earning the title ‘the great’ this was a result of her strong will, intelligence and popularity. She became a huge fashion icon of the time, having red hair and paler than pale skin became the in thing to do. She embodied power in most of the portraits of her and this can only be a true representation on her true self.

After visiting the National Portrait Gallery we were given the opportunity to visit a few makeup stores with the benefit of some discounts. Firstly we visited Illamasqua, I didn’t personally purchase anything from this store but others in the group used the 20% discount to their advantage. I really liked the overall look of this store, I felt that it was really well set out and I loved the different counters and looks they displayed. Here was also had an opportunity to looked at some of the products that were used during the induction week demonstration.

Next we visited Kyrolan/ Charles Fox, with a 10% discount I purchased an angled liner brush. I also really liked the overall look of this store, I felt that they displayed their products really well, particularly the different types of blood they sell being splattered against one of the walls. Kyrolan specialises in theatre and film makeup and it was interesting to have a close up look at the vast products they offer.

Finally we visited my favourite store and this is where I took full advantage of the amazing 35% discount! MAC is probably one of my favourite brands, I think it offers such a broad range of products that cater for everyone. Here I purchased a 239 shader brush, a blot powder and a lipstick in the shade Honey Love. I always find that the staff at MAC are so friendly and helpful and wasn’t disappointed here, the store was well organised and I thoroughly my visit. 

Westmore Family

The Westmore Family were a prominent family in Hollywood make-up. Born in Great Britain, on the Isle of Wight, George Westmore (1879–1931) the first of the Westmore makeup artists, after fighting in the war George opened his first hairdressing salon. He moved to Canterbury and then to Canada and the United States, working as a hairdresser in several cities before settling to Los Angeles in 1917. There he got a job at Selig Studio’s and created the first studio makeup department in history. He then moved to Triangle Studios, overseeing the makeup for stars like Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Lillian and Dorothy Gish, Billie Burke, Norma Talmadge, and Theda Bara. Unfortunately in the 1920’s several unfortunate events lead to his suicide in 1931. He had six sons that later then became heads or assistant heads of makeup departments of major studios, Perc, Ern, Monte, Wally, Bud, and Frank.

Notable films they have done work for include; The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, Casablanca and Breakfast at Tiffany's. 

Who's played Elizabeth?

Many actresses have taken on the role to play Elizabeth I. Cate Blanchett in 1997 stared in Elizabeth the film, Bette Davis in The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex. Glenda Jackson stared in the BBC TV series Elizabeth R, Anne Marie Duff in The Virgin Queen and Helen Mirren in Elizabeth I. Having this role was said to be very gruelling, many of the actresses chose to shave their hair off for the role in particular Bette Davis had her hair line shaved back and eyebrows shaved off. With shaving this particular part of the hair the actresses had the fear of their hair not growing fully back as it is such a sensitive part.  

  

Tudor Cosmetics

 The Tudor period was a time where wearing makeup symbolised your status, a women’s royalty and nobility showed their rank. Makeup also had practical uses of covering up disease scars in particular smallpox as it was around during this time.

The ideal Tudor women had a pale complexion, red lips and cheeks. The pale skin was a sign of wealth and this was sort after for many Tudor women. Elizabeth I in particular painted veins on her neck so her skin would seem translucent. The products they used for makeup included; Ceruse, a mixture of white lead and vinegar, it came in paste form and in order to be applied on the face women would mix it with water or egg-white. They would then apply it with a damp cloth. Ceruse has lead in it and this is very poisonous, it also had a hair loss effect, leading to women’s eyebrows to fall off permanently. It was also said to make to skin to appear grey and shrivelled.

They used plant roots and leaves as face paints, cochineal was used on the cheeks and lips, coal was used to darken the eyelashes and for hair dye they used a mixture of saffron, cumin seeds and oil to dye it the ideal red. Many women as a result of using these harsh products had hair loss as well, therefore had a variety of wigs. Elizabeth I in particular was said to have had over 80 wigs after suffering from alopecia. 

The Ditchley Portrait

Another portrait I looked at was the ‘Ditchley Portrait’ by Marcus Gheeraerts. This portrait is shown at the National Portrait Gallery in London, it shows Elizabeth I in a huge dress that is very beautiful. This painting could have lots of different meanings, she has a vast amount of pearls around her neck which could suggest her purity and virginity. In her hand she carries a folded fan and pair of gloves, gloves were said to suggest elegance in a painting and this may be what Elizabeth is trying to portray. The portrait shows Elizabeth standing on a globe of the world, this particular portrait was said to be for Sir Henry Lee who lived in Oxford, where the queen’s feet stand. The stormy sky and the sun peeking through could symbolise forgiveness.  

Image from 'The anatomy of fashion, dressing the body from the renaissance to today' by Susan J. Vincent. 

Portrait of an Unknown Women

Portrait of an Unknown Women.

This portrait stood out particularly because of the burgundy/ purple undertone it has to it, which you don’t often see in portraits of this time. The frame of the tiny waist and broader upper body instantly makes you think of the Elizabethan era, also with the puffy sleeves on the dress. The girl in the paintings face, hair colour and dress sense all scream the Elizabethan ideal, with all the small details of the lace and hair accessories. From this painting you can tell she is a fashionable young lady, copying the image that Elizabeth I portrayed. 

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/skinnygirl.html

Getting to know me

I am an 18 year old studying Hair and Makeup Design at Southampton Solent University. Before university I attended sixthform and studied Photography, Health and Social Care and Sociology. Apart from watching Youtube videos and tutorials I don’t have any makeup or hair experience. I am also very passionate about the fashion industry, earlier this year I attended a Guardian Master class, breaking into the fashion industry. I learnt about various roles in the fashion industry there and it was there that I confirmed I wanted to learn more about makeup and hair.

My understanding of the Elizabethan era isn’t very widespread, I have seen various film and television programmes on it and learnt about in lower years at school but can’t remember a vast amount of it. I know that it was named after probably one of the greatest queen’s Elizabeth I. I hope to learn about the way society ran in those days and how it differs from modern society. I also hope to learn about the fashion styles and what gave designers inspiration. I am very excited about doing this project as I don’t know a lot about them I feel I will learn a lot. It seemed like a very dramatic and interesting era to be around in and I feel that learning about it I will get a small feel about what it was like to be around at that time. The fashion in particular sticks out for me, in various paintings we see beautiful dress’s on women and intricate hair designs. As well as it being a fascinating time to live in I also think it would have been very terrifying due to things like executions and the conflicts of religion. I am looking forward to learning different techniques about how they would have done their makeup, also learning the intricate hairstyles, even though I know they will be hard! 

Charles Fox/Kyrolan Talk

As well as the Illamasqua talk we also had a Charles fox/ Kyrolan talk. They brought in and spoke about the products they offer and how they work. Charles fox, based in Covent Garden is owned by Kyrolan. They had a lot of products with them and went through how each of them worked and how to apply them.

After the talk we were given to opportunity to purchase any of the products with a 20% discount. I chose to purchase one of their bucket bags as I the storage I already have doesn’t fit all my kit in and with the discount it was very worth it! 

Illamasqua Talk

As part of our induction week we also had the opportunity to go to some industry talks. Spob O'Brien (Head of Professional Development), Josephine O'Brien (Events Manager) and Charlotte Savoury (Key MUA and International Brand Ambassador) all from Illamasqua came in and spoke to us about what it’s like being in the industry, there was also a demonstration of a makeup look. They spoke about the Illamasqua Distinction in Makeup Artistry Awards, held at the Princess Ann Theatre Stage on 4^th October. They also spoke about the different products they used during the demonstration and how they applied them. Charlotte was the one who did the look on one of the students and she recreated a look that the Illamasqua team did for the Sorapol SS15 show. She talked about how they used the highlighter straight down the face for when the models were walking down the runway, giving off an amazing glow. A lot of the products she used were from their new collection ‘Once’ which includes Vintage Metallix; Courtier, Bibelot and Embellish. She also used eye pencils "Honour" and "Navy".

After the talk we were asked to create our own look using some Illamasqua products. We had the scenario that we were only allowed certain products and our group in particular didn’t have any brushes to use. At first I think our group found it really hard to understand what we had to do, but after a while we realised we were thinking about it too much. All we simply had to do was think of a ‘story’ or brief and then create a look that went with it. Our group chose Amelia to be the model, having mermaid blue hair we thought we could use this to our advantage. Our overall brief/story was, ‘mermaid washed up on the shore, battered and bruised by the storm, laying on the sand. Hasn't slept in days, unaware of her surroundings.' The theme for this task was ‘Couture Makeup’ and the products we used were; Illamasqua's Skin Base Foundation in shade 02 and Eye Brow Cake in Gaze. 

The finished look. 

Induction week- Paper Bag Masks

Our last task for induction week was to create a paper bag mask that showed where we would like to be in 5 years’ time. We were showed a short video made by our course leader Sharon, in which the paper bags featured and then let loose on the bags. We didn’t have very long on this task and I felt that I need more time to properly think and plan what I wanted to go on my mask. I began by collecting different materials and glitter pens to try think of where to start, I wasn’t really sure of where I was going with this but I think that made it good because we didn’t have loads of time to make it perfect, we just had to do the best we could in the time we had. The image below is the final outcome of my paper bag mask, I used the different colour glitter pens for the lips to represent different places, people and experiences I would like to have. I then used white tissue paper for the eyes because in 5 years’ time I would like to have a clear idea of what I want to do and who I want to be. The jewels as the eyelashes were just for decoration. Lastly I wrote different fashion brands I would like to work with in my career including; Dior, Chanel, Versace, Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Givenchy and Prada. 

Induction Week- Second Task

For the second part of the orientation exercise we were asked to find different locations that may be of use to us throughout the next year. Once found, we were then required to take a ‘selfie’ outside the location.

The locations we had to go find and takes selfie's with were West quay shopping center:

The Mayflower Theatre:

Southampton City art Gallery:

We then had to go find a few makeup counters and have a look around them. The first counter was MAC; being probably one of my favourite makeup brands I found this very fun, the overall look and organisation of it is so clean and professional. I really like how everything is black so the products stand out more and make the colours pop. I think this brand is for the younger generation but could also cater for the more mature. The staff we spoke to were really friendly, we asked what their ‘hero’ product was, and to no shock it was ‘ruby woo’ lipstick.

Ruby woo lipstick

Secondly we went to Bobbi Brown, this being very different from MAC. Bobbi Brown has a very classy and mature feel about it, the products are for simple and natural looks, and you wouldn’t find a bright green eye shadow here.

We then went to Laura Mercier, we felt that this brand may be for an older generation, the counter in general didn’t really catch out attention and we nearly walked straight past it. The staff were really friendly though and we found out their ‘hero’ products were their Foundation Primer, Tinted Moisturizer and Concealer in secret camouflage.  

Next we went to Benefit, this counter definitely catches your attention, having a doll house feel it almost feel like you’ve walked into a quant boutique. The overall look of the counter is fun and girly, very inviting, although the staff we spoke to didn’t seem as friendly. Benefits bestselling project didn’t surprise me at all, being a huge fan of it myself their ‘They’re Real’ Mascara took the top spot.

 

Lastly we went to Smashbox, located in boots. I have never really tried anything from Smashbox but after visiting the counter I hope to purchase many of their products! Their best selling product is their Photo Finish primer and the staff were kind enough to give us samples of it to try out, I was not disappointed. We found out some interesting information when were there that Smashbox actually invented the first primer ever in 1996. This counter also felt like it was for a younger generation but also had a professional feel to it. 

Induction week- First task

Induction Week

During the first week of starting the course we were given a few tasks to complete as induction exercises.  Firstly we got into small groups to get to know each other and discuss our mood boards, in my group there was Sammie, Ruby and Jade.

Sammie’s mood board was a piece of card with cut out images she collected from internet research, she described different people she aspired to work with including Pat McGrath, Charlotte Tilbury and Nick Dudman. She then discussed what she wanted to achieve in her career and who inspires her. She said that she would like to get work experience from places like MAC, LOVE magazine, Illamasqua and House of Holland. For her mood board she researched on the internet and used magazines and books, one in particular called ‘makeup is art’. Finally we discussed if we could got the chance to do the mood board again what we would do and Sammie said that she wished she had taken more time on it and added more to it.

The second person to discuss their mood board was Ruby; her mood board was digital using a word document. Her mood board featured half fashion makeup and the other half Asian bridal as these were both areas she was really interested in. Ruby told us that she has always been obsessed with weddings but has never actually been to a wedding. Her main inspiration is Makeup artist Pat McGrath, saying she follows her on Instagram. Ruby said that she prefers cut and stick but felt that doing her mood board digitally would be easier, but overall she was happy with the way it came out.

Thirdly Jade spoke about her mood board, I found her board really interesting as I am more into fashion and jade is into film makeup, therefore I felt that I learnt from her. She explained that she was interested in prosthetic's, in particular Jeremy Aiello being her biggest inspiration having worked on the walking dead and shutter island. Jade has a keen interest in ‘dark’ films and would really like to work in that area, she found her images on Google but she felt that she knows what she wanted when she searched for them. Jade also said that she felt that her mood board didn't speak for itself, and that she would have to speak for it.  

Summer Project Part 2

For the second part of the summer project we were asked to analyse 2 films of our choice. We has to look for style inspiration, as it can be found in many different places, particularly film. The first film I chose to analyse was The Great Gatsby.  
This film belongs to the romance genre but is also a modernist novel, the film is set in the 1920's and has a modern twist with the musical element, being far from the F.Scott Fitzgerald book. The film mainly focuses on the lavish Gatsby (Leonardo DiCaprio) parties, all for his love Daisy Buchanan, played by Carey Mulligan. The film doesn't really have anything that makes it iconic, but I like how the film is set in the 1920's but has a modern edge to it. Also the iconic 20's fashion, when fashion entered the modern era, the film has a lot of extravagance and glamour which makes it so exciting. Other things in the film that could be said as iconic in the film could be Daisy's short 20's style hair and the Flapper girls at the parties. During these parties you see a variety of textures with the dress' feathers on the dresses and jewels on head scarves. 
The makeup department included 38 people, makeup designer Maurizio Silvi, an Oscar and BAFTA nominated designer for the film used his skill to create looks for the different characters in the film, such as the delicate Daisy and the sporty looks Jordan goes for. He describes in an interview the key MAC products used to create each of the individual looks. For the eye makeup he explains they went for the 'smudgy' look, and depending on the character a different lip colour. The 20's fashion has recently become quite popular, it was a time of renewal and elegance. The main characters Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan were already quite famous actors but these roles may have made the more iconic. Isla Fisher, who plays Myrtle also has an interesting look, being Tom Buchanan's mistress, she has a completely different style from Daisy, being more outgoing with bright red lips and fire red hair. 

Image from Google images: (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=the+great+gatsby&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=624&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=JK8uVLPxM4Wc7gbA1YHYBQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=d5ljBTT02BH5eM%253A%3Bgu5rxTHg-QMgyM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.hdwallpapers.in%252Fwalls%252Fthe_great_gatsby_movie-wide.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fblogdailyherald.com%252F2013%252F05%252F09%252Fmusic-for-studying-a-review-of-the-great-gatsby-soundtrack%252F%3B2880%3B1800) 

The second film i chose to analyse was Breakfast at Tiffany's; Breakfast at Tiffany's is a romantic comedy made in 1961. It stars Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard, Hepburn plays Holly Golightly, the main character, a cafe society girl. I would say her role in the film is the most iconic, the most iconic look being in the opening scene where she steps out of a cab in a full length Givenchy gown, her hair piled up on her head and large pearls with dark sunglasses ooze glamour and you know instantly that the film won't let you down in the fashion department. Audrey Hepburn was also said to have brought a sweet innocence to the glamour of the film. 
Having one of the most iconic looks in the opening scene is quite an achievement, being more than 50 years ago that the film was made and it still being so iconic. Celebrities all over have tired the look, emphasizing simplicity is sometimes the best way to go. She wears simple eyeliner flicks, neutral lipstick and blush, therefore making the look easy to recreate and try yourself, proving that maybe that is why it is so popular. For the film it was said that Audrey Hepburn's personal makeup artist Wally Westburn separated each of her eyelashes with a sewing pin to create the best look possible for the camera. Another iconic thing that probably wasn't as prominent then but is now is her eyebrows, being a big trend at the moment. This film is iconic in terms of fashion and style, it was said that Holly Golightly became a huge style inspiration for women in the 60's and still to this day. 

Image from Google images: (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=breakfast+at+tiffany%27s&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kK4uVJS8MK_W7QbZpoHIDQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=667#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=aMjT8ayZ6wb9pM%253A%3BjAHN3rq5iXVzEM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmovie-sounds.org%252Fimages%252Fbreakfast-tiffanys.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmovie-sounds.org%252Fromance-movie-sound-bites%252Fbreakfast-at-tiffany-s-1961%252F%3B214%3B317)

Summer Project

When I got accepted into university I was asked to complete a summer project. I was asked to complete a mood board of where we would like to be in 5 years' time, who we want to be and what our dream job would is. 

This is my mood board, it describes the kind of job I would like to be doing; I would like to either be a freelance makeup artist working on different fashion shoots and shows, or employed by a makeup brand such as MAC or benefit. I am passionate about fashion and that is the industry I would like to go into. I aspire to be a makeup artist at the above fashion weeks and work on various fashion shows as well. I took inspiration for this board from places like instagram; I follow various makeup artists like Pat McGrath and Charlotte Tilbury, getting inspiration from what they do on a day to day basic.